Okay let's be honest - bathroom cabinets take a beating. Moisture, toothpaste splatters, hair products... mine looked like a science experiment gone wrong. Last year I decided enough was enough and tackled painting them myself. Let me tell you, it wasn't all Pinterest-perfect moments. I messed up the first door big time (we'll get to that), but eventually got professional-looking results for under $100.
Why am I writing this? Because most tutorials skip the gritty details. Like how to deal with sticky hardware or why your paint bubbled after week two. We're covering everything from greasy hinge cleaning to picking paint that won't chip when you slam drawers. This is the guide I wish existed when I started.
Before You Begin: Crucial Considerations
Jumping straight into painting bathroom cabinets is like baking without preheating the oven. Here's what most people don't think about until it's too late:
First, check your cabinet material. Real wood? Easy. Laminate or thermofoil? Tricky but doable. My 90s-era particleboard cabinets needed serious prep work. If your cabinets are peeling or water-damaged, painting might just be a band-aid solution.
Second, assess the humidity situation. Small bathroom with no ventilation fan? You'll need special products. I learned this the hard way when my first coat stayed tacky for three days because I painted during rainy season.
Pro timing tip: Start on Thursday evening. Remove doors Friday after work, sand/prime Saturday, paint Sunday, reassemble Monday. Gives proper drying time without bathroom chaos.
Must-Have Tools & Materials
Don't be like me trying to use a butter knife as a screwdriver. Here's the actual stuff you need:
| Category | Essential Items | Why You Need It |
|---|---|---|
| Prep Tools | TSP cleaner, 150/220 grit sandpaper, microfiber cloths, wood filler, putty knife | Grease removal & surface prep are non-negotiable (skipped this on my first attempt - disaster) |
| Painting Supplies | 2" angled sash brush, mini foam roller, paint trays, painter's pyramid stands | Brushes for edges, rollers for flat surfaces. Pyramids keep doors elevated while drying |
| Primers | Oil-based bonding primer (Zinsser BIN) OR water-based (Stix) | Critical for adhesion. I prefer oil-based for durability despite longer dry time |
| Paints | Semi-gloss or satin enamel (Benjamin Moore Advance, Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane) | Must withstand moisture and cleaning. Flat/matte paints stain easily |
| Extras | Label maker/ziplock bags, degreaser, tack cloth, respirator mask | Trust me - labeling hardware saves nightmares during reassembly |
Budget reality check: Expect to spend $80-$150 depending on cabinet size. My 30" vanity cost $92 for primer, paint, and supplies. Cheaper than replacement ($500+) but not "free" like some blogs claim.
The Step-by-Step Painting Process
Here's where most guides get superficial. I'll share exact techniques and timing from my three bathroom projects:
Door Removal & Deep Cleaning
Turn off water supply first! (Ask how I know...) Remove doors/drawers using a #2 Phillips screwdriver. Number each door's location with painter's tape. Scrub everything with TSP alternative - regular cleaners leave residue. Pay attention to:
- Hinge areas (gunk magnets)
- Drawer fronts (fingernail scratches hold grease)
- Around handles (toothpaste buildup)
Rinse thoroughly and let dry overnight. Skipping this step caused my paint to peel around hinges.
Repairs & Sanding
Fill dents/dings with wood filler. For water-swollen edges, slice off damaged material with utility knife before filling. Lightly sand all surfaces with 150-grit:
- Sand with the grain on wood
- Circular motions on laminate
- Focus on edges and detailed trim
Wipe with tack cloth - not a damp rag! Moisture raises wood grain. I learned this after my first doors felt like sandpaper.
The Priming Game-Changer
This isn't optional. Use oil-based primer for:
- Previously varnished cabinets
- High-moisture bathrooms
- Laminates/veneers
Apply thin coat with brush in crevices, then mini-roller on flat surfaces. Maintain wet edge to prevent lap marks. Dry 4-6 hours. Lightly sand with 220-grit between coats if needed.
Ventilation alert: Oil-based primers stink. Use exhaust fan + open window. My wife banned me from the house for 4 hours last project.
Painting Techniques That Work
Use enamel paint designed for cabinets. My favorites:
- Benjamin Moore Advance (water-based, levels beautifully)
- Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane (toughest finish)
Apply 2-3 thin coats versus one thick coat. Ideal conditions:
| Factor | Ideal | Acceptable |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 70°F (21°C) | 60-85°F (15-29°C) |
| Humidity | 40-50% | Below 60% |
| Drying time between coats | 6-8 hours | Minimum 4 hours |
Technique: Always brush along the grain. Rollers leave subtle texture - use foam rollers for smoothest finish. Expect 3 hours active time for a standard vanity.
Reassembly & Hardware
Wait at least 48 hours before reinstalling doors. For hardware:
- Update hinges to soft-close (worth every penny)
- Consider new knobs/pulls - they're like jewelry for cabinets
- Use cabinet bumpers to prevent slamming
Apply clear wax to high-touch areas if using latex paint for extra protection.
FAQ: Answering Real Questions
These come from my readers and personal experience with painting bathroom cabinets:
How to paint bathroom cabinets without brush marks?
Thin coats are crucial. Add 10% water to water-based paints for better leveling. Use high-quality synthetic brush and maintain wet edge. Sand lightly between coats with 220-grit.
Should I use sprayer or brush for painting bathroom cabinets?
Sprayers give flawless finish but require massive prep (overspray gets everywhere). Brushes/rollers are messy but manageable in small spaces. I prefer foam rollers for flat surfaces.
How to paint bathroom cabinets that are laminate?
Degrease aggressively. Sand with 150-grit until surface loses shine. Use bonding primer (Stix or BIN). Laminate requires enamel paint - regular wall paint peels.
Will painting bathroom cabinets hold up to moisture?
With proper prep and quality enamel paint? Absolutely. My oldest painted bath cabinets are 4 years old with zero peeling. Avoid cheap paints - they turn yellow and chip.
Cost Breakdown & Timeline
Real numbers from my projects:
| Item | Standard Bath (30" vanity) | Large Bath (double vanity) | Where to Save |
|---|---|---|---|
| Primer | $20-$25 | $30-$40 | Buy quart instead of gallon |
| Paint | $25-$40 | $45-$70 | Mid-grade enamel vs premium |
| Supplies | $15-$25 | $20-$30 | Reuse trays/rollers |
| Hardware (optional) | $15-$50 | $30-$100 | Reuse existing |
| Total | $75-$140 | $125-$240 |
Timeline reality:
- Day 1: Removal & cleaning (2 hours)
- Day 2: Repairs & priming (3 hours)
- Day 3: First paint coat (1.5 hours)
- Day 4: Second coat (1.5 hours)
- Day 6: Reassembly (1 hour)
Total active time: 9 hours for standard vanity. Rushing causes drips and poor adhesion.
Mistakes That Ruin Results
After helping hundreds of DIYers, here are the top fails:
Skipping Degreasing
Cabinets near sinks develop invisible oil film. TSP removes this. Dawn dish soap doesn't cut it - my first attempt peeled within weeks.
Wrong Paint Choice
Using wall paint or cheap trim paint. Bathrooms need 100% acrylic or hybrid enamel. Look for "cabinet & trim" on label.
Poor Sanding
Either too aggressive (gouges) or too light (poor adhesion). Use 150-grit for prep, 220 between coats. Wipe with tack cloth after.
Humidity Ignorance
Painting when humidity >65% causes slow curing and bubbles. Run dehumidifier if necessary. Don't paint after showers.
Maintenance & Longevity
Well-painted cabinets last 5-8 years with care:
- Clean with mild soap & water - no abrasive cleaners
- Immediately wipe spills (especially hair dyes)
- Recaulk around sink annually
- Touch up chips with small artist's brush
My personal cabinet paint ranking after testing:
- Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel ($50/gallon)
- Benjamin Moore Advance ($45/gallon)
- Behr Urethane Alkyd ($35/gallon)
- Valspar Cabinet Enamel ($30/gallon) - only for low-use bathrooms
Parting Thoughts
Painting bathroom cabinets isn't glamorous, but it's satisfying. That first time you open your crisp white cabinet instead of staring at 90s oak? Priceless. Just don't cut corners on prep. I learned that lesson with chemical burns from stripping my botched first attempt.
Will it be perfect? Probably not. My drawer fronts have tiny dust nibs only I notice. But compared to $3000 replacements? Totally worth it. The key is accepting it's a process - not a weekend miracle. Now go rescue those cabinets!
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