Man, I remember when my dryer quit heating last winter. Towels came out damp and cold, and I nearly panicked thinking I'd need a new machine. Turned out it was just the heating element - that metal coil thing that actually warms the air. Saved myself about $300 doing the replacement myself after watching three YouTube videos and making two trips to Home Depot. Not gonna lie, that first time I cracked open the dryer felt like defusing a bomb. But guess what? It's actually pretty straightforward once you get past the nerves.
If your dryer's running but not heating, you're probably staring down the same repair. Good news: replacing a heating element is one of the most common DIY fixes. Bad news: lots of folks mess up the safety stuff. I almost did when I forgot to unplug the darn thing. Nearly gave myself a new hairstyle.
How Do You Know It's Actually the Heating Element?
Before you start ripping your dryer apart, let's confirm that replacing the heating coil is really what you need. Dryers can stop heating for lots of reasons, and not all require opening up the machine. Here's what to check first:
- Power supply - Sounds dumb but check if it's plugged in securely. I once spent an hour troubleshooting only to find my kid pulled the plug halfway out.
- Circuit breaker - Go check your electrical panel. A tripped breaker feels like an insult when you realize that's all it was.
- Lint filter - A clogged filter restricts airflow, causing overheating that triggers safety shutoffs. Clean that bad boy thoroughly.
- Exhaust vent - Stick your hand by the outdoor vent while the dryer runs. Weak airflow? You've got blockage. Grab a vent cleaning kit.
- Thermal fuse - That little $5 part blows when things get too hot and kills the heat. Test it with a multimeter first - way easier than replacing the heating element.
Okay, if you've eliminated those and your dryer still runs cold, it's heating element time. Classic symptoms include:
- Drum rotates normally but produces zero heat
- Clothes take 2+ cycles to dry completely
- You smell burning dust when it runs (element shorting out)
- Visible damage through the vent opening (rare but happens)
My neighbor called me last month convinced she needed a new element. Turns out her lint screen was so clogged it looked like a stuffed animal. Cleaned it out and boom - heat restored. Always start simple.
What You'll Need to Replace Your Dryer Heating Element
Don't be like me that first time - scrambling around mid-repair looking for tools. Gather these before you start:
- Basic screwdrivers (Phillips and flat-head)
- Nut driver set (¼-inch and ⅜-inch most common)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Multimeter (essential for diagnostics)
- Work gloves (metal edges are sharp!)
- Flashlight
- Vacuum cleaner
- Replacement heating element (obviously)
Finding the Right Replacement Part
This is where people waste money. Don't just grab the first element you see on Amazon. Take five minutes to:
- Find your dryer's model number (usually on the door frame)
- Search "heating element [your model number]"
- Verify compatibility with multiple sellers
Generic parts sometimes fit, but I've had better luck with OEM replacements. That cheapo $25 element I bought lasted four months before burning out. Spend the extra $10-15 for quality.
| Brand | Element Price Range | Where to Buy |
|---|---|---|
| Whirlpool | $35-$65 | RepairClinic, AppliancePartsPros |
| Samsung | $40-$75 | Amazon, Sears Parts Direct |
| LG | $45-$80 | Encompass Parts, LG official |
| GE | $30-$60 | PartSelect, eBay |
Fun story: My buddy ordered an element using his dryer's marketing name instead of model number. Got the wrong part twice. Those model numbers matter!
The Step-by-Step Heating Element Swap Process
Alright, game time. Grab your tools and clear some floor space. Total job takes 45-90 minutes depending on your dryer type. Top-loaders are usually easier than front-loaders.
⚠️ Safety First! Unplug your dryer BEFORE anything. Not just turn off - physically unplug. I learned this lesson with a tiny zap that made my arm tingle for an hour. Also, gas dryers? Shut off the gas valve. Seriously.
Getting Inside Your Dryer
Disassembly varies by brand, but usually involves:
- Removing the back panel (7-10 screws typically)
- Detaching the top panel (flip latches near front corners)
- Prying open the front console carefully (hidden screws under stickers)
Pro tip: Take phone photos at each step. Reassembly is like puzzling backward if you forget where stuff goes. Ask how I know...
Locating and Removing the Old Element
Once inside, you'll typically find the heating element:
- Behind the back panel near the bottom (Whirlpool, Maytag)
- Under the drum accessed via front panel (Samsung, LG)
- Mounted vertically near the blower housing (GE, older models)
You'll disconnect:
- Power wires (remember to note positions!)
- Thermal fuse connections
- Mounting brackets (usually 2-4 screws)
Careful sliding it out - those coils break easily. Vacuum out lint buildup while you're in there. My dryer had enough lint to knit a sweater.
Installing the New Heating Element
Reverse the removal process:
- Secure bracket screws firmly but don't overtighten
- Reconnect wires EXACTLY as they were
- Ensure no wires touch heating coils
📌 Essential: Use your multimeter to test continuity on the new element before reassembly. Should read 10-50 ohms typically. Zero reading? Bad part. Infinite reading? Also bad. I once installed a DOA element and had to reopen everything.
Testing After Replacing Heating Element
Don't celebrate yet. After full reassembly:
- Plug dryer back in
- Run a heat cycle empty
- Check exhaust vent for heat output after 5 minutes
If no heat, triple-check:
- Thermal fuse continuity (might've blown during install)
- Wire connections (pushed in fully?)
- Element grounding (coil can't touch casing)
My first replacement attempt failed because I'd knocked loose a wire to the thermostat. Ten-minute fix after an hour of panic.
When to Call a Professional Instead
Look, some situations need a pro:
- Gas dryer repairs (gas lines = nope)
- Complex electronic diagnostics
- Wiring looks melted or damaged
- You feel uncomfortable with electrical work
| Service Type | Average Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Diagnostic fee | $50-$100 | Often credited toward repair |
| Heating element replacement | $150-$300 | Parts + labor |
| Emergency service | $300-$500 | Weekends/holidays |
Got quoted $350 recently for a job that cost me $48 in parts. But if you value your time or hate mechanical work? Totally valid to call someone.
Making Your New Heating Element Last
Replaced your dryer heating element? Make it last with these habits:
- Clean lint filter every cycle (no exceptions!)
- Vacuum the interior every 3-6 months
- Check exterior vent flap moves freely
- Don't overload - wet clothes need airflow
Modern heating elements typically last 5-8 years with proper maintenance. That $50 repair buys you years more dryer life.
Your Top Heating Element Questions Answered
Can I replace dryer heating element myself?
Most homeowners can handle replacing heating elements with basic tools. Requires mechanical aptitude but isn't rocket science. Watch model-specific YouTube tutorials first.
How much does it cost to replace heating element?
Parts cost $30-$80 depending on brand. Professional replacement runs $150-$300 total. DIY saves significant money if you're comfortable.
How long should a new heating element last?
Properly installed and maintained, expect 5-10 years. Elements fail prematurely from lint buildup, overloaded drums, or power surges.
What happens if I install the element wrong?
Possible outcomes: No heat (most common), tripped breaker, blown thermal fuse, or worst case - electrical fire. Follow wiring diagrams precisely.
Why does my new element get red-hot immediately?
That's normal during heating cycles. Abnormal if it glows when dryer is off or smells like burning plastic. Shut off immediately if that happens.
Can I test the element without disassembly?
Partially. Use a multimeter on the heating element terminals at the wiring harness (consult manual for location). Should show continuity (not infinite resistance).
Do all dryers use the same heating elements?
No. Elements vary by voltage (240V vs 120V), physical size, wattage, and mounting style. Always match your model number.
Should I replace other parts while inside?
Smart to replace the thermal fuse ($5-$15 part) since it often fails with element issues. Inspect thermostat and wiring too.
Final thought? Replacing a dryer heating element feels intimidating until you do it. That first warm load of laundry afterward? Pure satisfaction. Just take safety seriously, follow instructions, and don't force anything. You've got this.
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