Let's talk periwinkle ground cover. You've probably seen it – those glossy green leaves and pretty purple-blue flowers popping up under trees or along slopes. Maybe you're tired of mowing that tricky shady spot, or you're battling erosion on a bank. Periwinkle (sometimes folks call it vinca minor or myrtle) seems like the perfect solution. Looks tough, spreads nicely, low maintenance. Sounds great, right? Well, mostly. After helping folks plant this stuff for years (and dealing with my own garden escapades), I've learned there's a flip side. Let's dig into everything you ACTUALLY need to know before, during, and after planting periwinkle as ground cover. No fluff, just the real-world scoop.
Okay, What Exactly *Is* Periwinkle Ground Cover?
First things first. When we say "periwinkle ground cover," we're usually talking about two plants: Vinca minor and its less common but showier cousin, Vinca major.
| Feature | Vinca Minor (Common Periwinkle) | Vinca Major (Bigleaf Periwinkle) |
|---|---|---|
| Hardiness Zones | 4-8 (Tougher in cold) | 7-10 (Prefers warmer winters) |
| Height | 3-6 inches (Stays low) | 6-18 inches (Can get leggy) |
| Leaf Size | Smaller (about 1-2 inches) | Larger (2-3 inches), more oval |
| Flower Size & Color | Smaller (~1 inch), classic periwinkle blue/purple is most common (also white available) | Slightly larger flowers, same typical colors |
| Spread Speed | Moderate (Can still be aggressive!) | Fast (Potentially VERY invasive) |
| Best Use Case | Most ground cover situations (safer choice) | Quick coverage in large, contained areas (use with extreme caution!) |
Heads Up: Stick with Vinca minor unless you have a HUGE, contained area and live in a warm zone. Vinca major earns its "invasive" label quickly and can choke out native plants. Seriously, I've seen it take over woodland edges in just a couple of seasons. Stick with minor for ground cover purposes.
Why Even Consider Periwinkle for Ground Cover?
Forget the sales pitch. Here's the real-world pros based on soil, sweat, and dealing with customer feedback:
The Wins:
- Shade Champion: Full sun? Forget it. It fries. But deep, dry shade under massive oaks or on the north side of your house? Places where grass gives up and moss creeps in? This is where vinca minor shines. It actually THRIVES where most plants whimper. I've planted it under old maples where nothing else would grow except maybe weeds.
- Set It & (Mostly) Forget It: Once established? Seriously low fuss. It laughs at drought. Pests? Rarely an issue (deer usually leave it alone, thankfully). Diseases? Minimal. You water it maybe the first summer during droughts, then basically ignore it. Huge plus for busy folks or large properties.
- Erosion Stopper: Those trailing stems root wherever they touch soil. On a steep bank where rain washes mulch away? Periwinkle ground cover acts like a living net, holding soil firmly. Way better than fighting with silt fences every spring.
- Cheap & Easy to Start: You don't buy flats and flats. Buy a few pots or get divisions from a neighbor (everyone has too much eventually!). Plant them 12-18 inches apart. It fills in surprisingly fast (usually within 1-2 growing seasons if soil is decent).
- Evergreen Goodness (Mostly): In zones 5 and up, it stays green all winter. In colder zone 4, it might brown a bit but bounces back fast in spring. That year-round coverage is gold, especially hiding dying bulb foliage.
The "Oh, Crap" Realities:
- It Spreads. Really, Really Well. This is the BIG one everyone underestimates. That "easy to start" becomes "hard to stop." It creeps underground (rhizomes) and roots along stems (stolons). If you plant it near a flower bed, lawn, or natural area, it will try to invade. You need clear, hard boundaries (like sidewalks, driveways) or vigilance with an edger/spade.
- Can Become a Weed Magnet: Weeds *will* pop up through it, especially when it's young and thin. Pulling them is fiddly work because you're fighting the vinca stems too. Thick, mature mats suppress weeds better, but it's never 100%.
- "Flower Power" is Fleeting: Don't expect a solid carpet of blue all season. The main flush is spring (April-May), with sporadic blooms popping up here and there through summer. It's pretty, but not overwhelming.
- Can Get Scraggly: In very dense shade, it might get thin. Sometimes, older patches develop bare stems underneath. A good mowing or shearing down to 2-4 inches in early spring (before new growth) fixes this easily.
- Invasive Tendency Warnings (Check Your Area!): This isn't just me being cautious. Many areas, especially near natural woodlands, list Vinca minor as invasive. It escapes gardens and smothers native forest floor plants. Please, PLEASE check your local extension service (Invasive Plant Atlas is a good start) before planting. Responsible gardening matters.
Planting Periwinkle Ground Cover: Getting it Right From Day One
Okay, you're committed. How do you give it the best start? It's easy, but a few steps make a HUGE difference in how fast it fills in.
The Perfect Spot (Light & Soil)
Light is Key: Think dappled shade to full shade. Morning sun + afternoon shade works. Blazing hot afternoon sun? Avoid. That scorches the leaves. Deep, dark shade? Vinca minor handles it better than almost anything. Full sun? Only if you're in a cool, coastal climate AND keep the soil constantly moist (which defeats the low-water perk!).
Soil? Not Fussy (Within Reason): It tolerates a wide range - sand, clay, loam. The magic word is drainage. It hates sitting in soggy soil, especially in winter. Wet feet = root rot. If you have heavy clay, amend it with compost or plant on a slope. Soil pH? Slightly acidic to slightly alkaline (6.0 - 7.5) is fine.
Planting Time & Technique
Best Time: Early spring (soil workable) or early fall (6+ weeks before hard frost). Avoid summer heat stress.
Prep is Everything:
- Kill Existing Weeds/Grass Thoroughly. Seriously. Smother it with cardboard for months, use a targeted herbicide (glyphosate, carefully), or dig it out. Weeds popping through vinca are misery to remove.
- Loosen the Soil: Don't need to dig deep, just 6-8 inches to break up compaction.
- Amend Poor Soil: Mix in 2-3 inches of compost over the planting area. Helps with drainage and gives nutrients.
Planting:
- Space plants 12-18 inches apart. Closer fills faster but costs more upfront.
- Dig a hole deep enough to plant at the same depth it was in the pot.
- Tease out roots gently if pot-bound.
- Water deeply right after planting.
Mulch Matters: Apply 1-2 inches of shredded bark or leaf mulch AFTER planting. Suppresses weeds and conserves moisture while plants establish. Keep mulch away from the plant crowns.
Watering & Feeding: Less is More
Watering: Crucial for the first growing season. Water deeply 1-2 times per week during dry spells. By year two, established plants are incredibly drought-tolerant. Only water during prolonged, severe droughts.
Fertilizing: Honestly? Usually unnecessary. If soil is poor or growth seems sluggish, a light application of a balanced fertilizer (like 10-10-10) in early spring is plenty. Over-fertilizing = more leaves, less flowers, and encourages rampant spread. Maybe skip it.
Keeping Your Periwinkle Ground Cover Looking Sharp (Without Losing Your Mind)
Maintenance is minimal, but a little effort prevents problems.
| Task | When | How & Why | Effort Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Controlling Spread | Throughout growing season (especially spring/summer) | Edge beds sharply with a spade or mechanical edger where it meets lawn or gardens. Pull runners invading unwanted areas IMMEDIATELY - easier when small. | Medium (Vigilance is key!) |
| Weed Control | Early Spring & As Needed | Hand-pull weeds carefully through the mat. Spot-treat tough perennial weeds with a careful dab of herbicide on a sponge (avoid vinca!). Mulch helps prevent. | Low-Medium (Worst when plants are young) |
| Rejuvenation Pruning/Shearing | Late Winter / Early Spring (before new growth) | Use a mower (highest setting), string trimmer, or hedge shears to cut back to 2-4 inches. Removes winter damage, encourages denser growth, promotes more flowers. | Low (Once a year) |
| Watering | First season only; Afterwards, severe drought only | Deep soakings infrequently. Avoid overhead watering late in day. | Very Low (After establishment) |
| Pest/Disease Patrol | Occasionally | Watch for aphids (blast with water) or fungal spots (improve air flow, avoid wet foliage). Rarely serious. | Very Low |
Design Ideas: Where Periwinkle Ground Cover Actually Works Best
So where does this plant earn its keep? Focus on its strengths:
- The Impossible Shady Slope: This is its MVP role. Controlling erosion in shade where grass won't grow and mulching is pointless. Plant it, let it weave its net.
- Under Large Trees (The Rooty Wasteland): Competing with tree roots for water and nutrients? Vinca minor handles it better than many. It creates a uniform green carpet under oaks, maples, pines.
- Foundation Plantings (North/Shady Sides): That often-bare strip between the house and the sidewalk on the shady side? Ideal periwinkle ground cover territory.
- Woodland Garden Pathways & Edges: Provides a neat, evergreen border along paths in dappled shade gardens. Pairs well with ferns, hostas, hellebores.
- Cemetery Plots or Low-Maintenance Memorial Areas: Its toughness and evergreen nature make it a frequent choice.
Design Tip: Want to avoid the "green blob" look? Tuck in clumps of contrasting foliage or spring bulbs that emerge *through* the vinca. Think white daffodils, blue scilla, or bold hostas towards the back. Adds seasonal interest.
Frequently Asked Questions (The Ones Gardeners Actually Ask Me)
Q: How FAST does periwinkle ground cover spread?
A: Expect noticeable filling in within the first year, but full coverage usually takes 2 growing seasons for Vinca minor planted 12-18" apart. Vinca major? Much faster (maybe too fast!). Soil, moisture, and sun affect speed. Good conditions = faster spread.
Q: Will periwinkle kill my trees?
A: No. Its roots are shallow and don't compete heavily with deep tree roots. It coexists well under established trees where grass struggles due to root competition and shade.
Q: Is periwinkle poisonous to dogs/cats?
A: Yes, unfortunately. All parts of the Vinca plant contain alkaloids that are toxic if ingested in large quantities. It can cause vomiting, diarrhea, low blood pressure, and tremors. While the bitter taste often deters pets, it's best planted where curious nibblers (especially puppies/kittens) can't access it easily, or consider a different ground cover if pets are a major concern.
Q: How do I KILL periwinkle ground cover if I need to remove it?
A: Brace yourself; it's tough. Small patches: Dig relentlessly, removing ALL roots and runners. Larger areas: Smother for 6-12 months minimum with heavy-duty black plastic or cardboard + thick mulch. Herbicides: Glyphosate (like Roundup) applied *multiple* times during active growth (spring/fall) is often necessary. Be persistent. Missed bits regrow.
Q: Are there any good alternatives to periwinkle for shade?
A: Absolutely, especially if you're worried about invasiveness:
- Pachysandra terminalis (Japanese Spurge): Similar glossy leaves, spreads steadily but less aggressively than vinca. White flowers in spring. Prefers moist soil more than vinca.
- Lamiastrum galeobdolon ‘Herman's Pride’ (Yellow Archangel - CAUTION with other varieties): Striking silver-veined leaves, yellow flowers. Spreader, but 'Herman's Pride' is less aggressive. Needs shade.
- Asarum canadense (Wild Ginger): Native! Beautiful heart-shaped leaves. Spreads slowly by rhizomes. Unique maroon flower hidden under leaves. Prefers moist, rich soil.
- Waldsteinia fragarioides (Barren Strawberry): Semi-evergreen, strawberry-like leaves, yellow spring flowers. Tolerant of drier shade than pachysandra. Spreads moderately.
- Carex pensylvanica (Pennsylvania Sedge): Native grass-like plant. Forms lovely, fine-textured clumps that gently spread. Very low maintenance. Great under trees.
My Take: The Good, The Bad, and When I'd Use It
Look, I won't sugarcoat it. Periwinkle ground cover is a tool, not a magic bullet. In my own garden? I use it sparingly and strategically. On that super steep, shaded bank behind my shed where nothing else would hold? Perfect. It's been there 10 years, requires zero care, and stopped the erosion. Success.
But I learned the hard way years ago planting it near a mixed perennial border without a solid barrier (like a deep metal edging or path). It crept relentlessly. Pulling those endless runners was back-breaking work. I ended up digging most of it out and replacing it with pachysandra where I needed a neater edge. Lesson learned!
So, would I recommend it? Yes, BUT only if:
- You have a significantly challenging shady area (slope, under trees) needing erosion control or coverage.
- You understand its vigorous spreading habit and commit to managing it (or have very clear natural boundaries like pavement).
- You've checked that it's not invasive in your specific local area and won't threaten nearby natural spaces.
- Pets aren't likely to munch on it extensively.
If you just want a low patch of green in a small, contained shady spot near other delicate plants? Honestly, I'd probably point you towards pachysandra, a tough hosta variety, or even dense plantings of liriope instead. Less potential for future headaches.
Periwinkle ground cover fills a specific niche brilliantly. Just go in with your eyes wide open to its nature. Understand its power – and its potential to become a bit of a thug if left unchecked. Plant it where that spreading power is an asset, not a liability, and you'll have a low-maintenance winner. Put it in the wrong spot, and you might spend years regretting it. Choose wisely!
Wrapping It Up: Is Periwinkle Your Ground Cover Match?
Periwinkle ground cover (especially Vinca minor) is undeniably tough, beautiful, and solves specific landscaping headaches like dry shade and erosion like few other plants can. Its low-maintenance nature after establishment is a huge plus. However, its vigorous spreading habit is its defining characteristic – a blessing where coverage is needed quickly on tough sites, but a potential curse if it escapes into unwanted areas or sensitive ecosystems.
The key is informed choice. Match the plant's strengths (shade tolerance, drought resistance, erosion control) to your site's specific challenges. Be brutally honest about your willingness and ability to manage its borders long-term. Research its status in your local environment. Consider safer alternatives for smaller or more contained spaces.
Used responsibly and strategically, periwinkle can be a fantastic, low-effort solution for those tricky spots. Plant it smart, manage its edges, and enjoy that year-round green carpet where little else thrives.
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