Woke up to a daddy longlegs dangling over your cereal bowl? Found a wolf spider lurking in the basement? You're not alone. Every year, countless homeowners search for how to get rid of spiders in the house because let's face it – nobody wants uninvited eight-legged roommates. Having battled spider invasions in my old Victorian home for years, I'll share what truly works (and what doesn't) without sugarcoating anything.
Why Spiders Move In and Where They Hide
Spiders don't crash your space to annoy you. They're hunting two things: food and shelter. If you've got other insects indoors, you've basically set up an all-you-can-eat buffet. Common hideouts include:
- Basements and crawlspaces (damp and dark = spider paradise)
- Window frames and door corners (prime web-building real estate)
- Attics and storage boxes (undisturbed for months? Perfect!)
- Behind furniture and appliances (your fridge's warm motor is a spider hotspot)
When Spiders Become a Real Problem
Most spiders are harmless, but let's be real – nobody wants venomous varieties like black widows near their kids. You should take action when:
- You spot egg sacs (white cotton-ball clusters)
- Bites occur (rare but dangerous with some species)
- Webs reappear faster than you can clear them
- You have severe arachnophobia (no shame in that)
Stop Spiders Before They Enter
Prevention beats cure every time. Seal their entry points first:
| Entry Point | Solution | Cost Estimate |
|---|---|---|
| Cracks in foundation | Caulking or expanding foam | $5-$15 per tube |
| Window gaps | Weather stripping | $10-$20 per window |
| Door thresholds | Door sweeps | $15-$30 per door |
| Utility line openings | Steel wool + caulk | <$10 |
Make Your Home Less Spider-Friendly
Reduce clutter immediately. Spiders adore:
- Piles of newspapers/magazines
- Unused clothing heaps
- Cardboard storage boxes (switch to plastic bins)
Also, fix moisture issues. A $20 dehumidifier in basements works wonders since spiders seek damp spots.
Natural Ways to Eliminate Spiders
For those avoiding chemicals, these methods actually work:
Essential Oil Sprays
Mix 15 drops of peppermint oil with water in a spray bottle. Shake well and spritz along baseboards and windowsills. Reapply weekly. Other effective oils:
- Tea tree (kills spiders on contact)
- Lavender (repels and smells pleasant)
- Citrus (disrupts their nervous system)
Diatomaceous Earth (DE)
Food-grade DE is lethal to spiders but safe for pets and humans. Sprinkle it in these hotspots:
- Behind appliances
- Under furniture
- Along basement walls
When spiders crawl through DE, it dehydrates their exoskeleton. Kills within 48 hours. Reapply after vacuuming.
Chemical Solutions for Severe Infestations
When natural methods fail, these products get results:
| Product Type | How It Works | Effectiveness Duration | Safety Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spider sprays (like Raid) | Kills on contact through neurotoxins | Instant but temporary | Avoid in kitchens/pet areas |
| Residual insecticides (demand CS) | Creates long-term barrier | 2-3 months | Professional application recommended |
| Glue traps | Physical capture | Until full | Non-toxic but cruel |
Professional Extermination Costs
When DIY fails, pros charge:
- $150-$300 for one-time treatment
- $50-$75/month for ongoing prevention
- Extra $100+ for severe black widow infestations
Seasonal Spider Control Calendar
| Season | Spider Activity | Key Actions |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | Mating season begins | Seal entry points, trim vegetation near house |
| Summer | Peak insect activity = more spiders | Weekly web removal, deploy traps |
| Fall | Spiders seek warmth indoors | Apply residual barriers, install door sweeps |
| Winter | Less active but still present | Focus on basement/crawlspace treatments |
Common Spider Elimination Mistakes
Don't waste time on these ineffective tactics:
- Ultrasonic repellents (studies show zero impact on spiders)
- Chestnuts in corners (old wives' tale with no scientific backing)
- Bleach sprays (damages surfaces but doesn't prevent reinfestation)
- Only killing visible spiders (misses egg sacs and hidden colonies)
The Vacuum Cleaner Trick Most Miss
Your vacuum is your best weapon:
- Use crevice attachment along baseboards
- Focus on ceiling corners where webs form
- Immediately empty canister/bag OUTDOORS
- Add diatomaceous earth to vacuum bag to kill captured spiders
Vacuuming removes spiders, webs, AND egg sacs simultaneously. Do this twice weekly during peak season.
Identifying Common House Spiders
Know your enemy with this quick guide:
| Spider Type | Appearance | Danger Level | Preferred Hangouts |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cellar Spider | Long thin legs, small body | Harmless | Basements, ceilings |
| Wolf Spider | Hairy, up to 1.5 inches | Mild bite | Floor corners, closets |
| Black Widow | Shiny black with red hourglass | Venomous! Seek medical help if bitten | Garages, woodpiles |
| Brown Recluse | Brown with violin marking | Dangerous necrotic venom | Attics, behind furniture |
FAQs: Your Burning Spider Questions Answered
What attracts spiders to my house specifically?
Three main magnets: abundant insects (food source), accessible entry points (cracks > 1/16 inch), and dark undisturbed areas (cluttered basements attract them like magnets). Eliminate these and you solve 80% of the problem.
Do spiders come back after extermination?
They will unless you implement ongoing prevention. Residual insecticides last 60-90 days. Combine with quarterly web removal and annual sealing of new cracks/gaps. My personal routine: peppermint oil spray monthly + professional treatment every fall.
Are store-bought spider traps worth buying?
Glue traps work but have drawbacks. They capture wandering spiders but won't eliminate web-builders or egg sacs. Place them along walls where spiders travel. Pros: non-toxic, monitor infestation levels. Cons: cruel, messy to dispose of, need frequent replacing. For $5, they're worth trying in basements.
How quickly can I expect results?
With comprehensive methods:
- Immediate reduction: Chemical sprays (24-48 hours)
- Short-term control: Traps + vacuuming (1 week)
- Long-term solution: Sealing + residual barriers (2-4 weeks for full effect)
Important: Spider egg sacs hatch in 2-3 weeks. Multiple treatments are usually needed.
Can I relocate spiders instead of killing them?
Absolutely. Use the glass-and-cardboard method: Place glass over spider, slide cardboard underneath, release outdoors. Works best for larger solitary spiders. Not practical for infestations – you'd need to catch hundreds. Personally, I relocate cellar spiders but eliminate recluse species immediately.
Spiders in Specific Home Areas
Garage Spider Solutions
Garages are spider magnets due to clutter and minimal disturbance. Essential fixes:
- Install weather stripping on garage doors ($20)
- Store items in sealed plastic bins, not cardboard
- Apply residual insecticide along walls (like Demand CS)
- Keep lights off when not needed (lights attract bugs)
Basement and Crawlspace Strategies
These damp areas require special tactics:
- Dehumidifier set to 50% humidity ($60-$300)
- Vapor barrier installation in crawlspaces ($0.50-$1.50/sq ft)
- Boric acid powder applied to corners (kills spiders and egg sacs)
- Regular vacuuming with HEPA filter
Dealing with Spiders in Bedrooms
For fear-free sleeping:
- Apply peppermint oil along bed legs and windows
- Use bed risers to eliminate under-bed hiding spots
- Install tight-fitting window screens
- Vacuum weekly including under bed
When to Call Professionals
DIY has limits. Call exterminators if:
- You find multiple venomous spiders (black widows/recluses)
- Infestation persists after 4 weeks of consistent treatment
- Family members experience bites
- You discover multiple egg sacs in walls
Average emergency spider removal costs $250-$400 depending on severity. Ask for:
- Insecticide residual report (how long it lasts)
- Pet-safe treatment options if applicable
- Guarantee period (good companies offer 30-90 day warranties)
The most effective ways to get rid of spiders in your house combine prevention, natural deterrents, and targeted chemical treatments. Start with sealing entry points and reducing clutter – often cheaper and more effective than sprays. For recurring problems, residual barriers provide lasting relief. Remember that complete spider elimination is unrealistic (and ecologically unwise), but reducing them to non-bothersome levels is totally achievable.
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