Alright, let’s be real. I used to think concealer was just for under-eye circles. Then I watched a makeup artist friend cover a tattoo with it and my mind exploded. Turns out, most of us are using concealer wrong. Seriously, putting it in the wrong spots can make you look older or cakey. Not cute.
After testing techniques on hundreds of clients (and my own breakout-prone skin), I’ve nailed down exactly where to put concealer for that "I woke up like this" glow. Forget those vague tutorials – we’re getting into the nitty-gritty of placement for different face shapes, skin types, and even those stubborn blue veins on your eyelids.
The Non-Negotiable Spots: Where Concealer Actually Belongs
Let’s cut through the noise. Based on 10 years of doing makeup for everyone from teens to brides, here are the zones that always need coverage:
Under-Eye Triangle (Not Just Swipes!)
Biggest mistake? Drawing semicircles under your eyes. That actually drags your face down. You want an upside-down triangle with the base under your lash line and point toward your cheeks. Covers darkness while lifting everything up. Pro tip: avoid the wrinkly inner corners unless you’ve got serious shadows there.
Nostril Creases and Smile Lines
Those reddish folds around your nostrils? Goldmine for concealer. Use a tiny brush and literally dab it into the crease. Same for smile lines – but go light-handed or it’ll settle into wrinkles. Learned that the hard way at a wedding where I looked 60 by cocktail hour.
Eyelid Color Correction
If you’ve got blue-purple eyelids (like me), peach-toned concealer neutralizes it instantly. Swipe across the entire lid before eyeshadow. Game-changer for hooded eyes especially.
Lip Line Definition
Outline your lips with concealer on a flat brush to stop feathering and make lipstick pop. Bonus: it hides those annoying brownish edges smokers get (my aunt swears by this).
And no, you don’t need concealer everywhere. I cringe seeing TikTokers slathering it across their whole forehead. Unless you’re covering a bruise, stop it.
| Problem Area | Exact Placement | Tool to Use | Common Mistake |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dark Circles | Inverted triangle under eye, avoiding inner corner wrinkles | Damp beauty sponge | Applying too close to lower lash line (causes creasing) |
| Redness Around Nose | Press product into nostril creases | Small synthetic brush | Only covering surface redness (leaves shadow lines) |
| Acne/Blemishes | Dot directly on spot, extend 1mm beyond edges | Precision concealer brush | Rubbing instead of dabbing (removes coverage) |
| Lip Definition | Trace outer lip line with brush | Angled eyeliner brush | Creating a stark white outline (use skin-tone shade!) |
🔥 Pro Tip from My Kit: Concealer oxidizes (turns orange) faster on oily skin. If your under-eyes look weird by noon, switch formulas. My oily-skinned clients love NARS Soft Matte ($30), while dry skins do better with Kosas Revealer ($28).
Face Shape Matters: Where to Put Concealer for Your Bone Structure
Round face? Heart-shaped? Where you place concealer changes everything. I did a workshop last month and watched an oval-faced woman contour her cheeks into gaunt hollows. Yikes.
Round Faces
You want elongation. Apply highlighter concealer (1-2 shades lighter) in vertical stripes: down the bridge of your nose, center forehead, chin tip. Avoid cheek apples – makes face wider.
Square Faces
Soften that jawline. Blend concealer over the outer jaw corners and sides of forehead. Keep the center of forehead/nose matte.
Heart-Shaped Faces
Balance a pointy chin. Brighten under eyes outward toward temples (not downward). Dab concealer on chin center only.
Oval Faces
Lucky you – just avoid over-highlighting. Stick to under-eyes and spot coverage. Seriously, don’t mess with perfection.
Still unsure? Try this: stand in natural light and turn sideways. Any shadows that aren’t cheek hollows? Hit those with concealer.
Skin Type Rules: Oily vs. Dry Skin Application
My dry-skinned best friend and I (oily T-zone) nearly fought over which concealer was "best." Truth? Technique changes everything.
👩 My Dry Skin Disaster: Used matte concealer under my eyes for a beach wedding. Two hours later, it looked like cracked desert earth. Had to fix it with lip balm (don’t try this). Now I prep dry areas with squalane oil first.
For Oily Skin
- Prep: Press powder under concealer in shine zones (forehead, nose)
- Application: Blend quickly before it sets. Cream formulas > liquids
- Set: Translucent powder pressed (not swiped) onto spots
For Dry Skin
- Prep: Hydrating eye cream, wait 10 mins
- Application: Mix liquid concealer with serum on back of hand
- Set: Skip powder or use micro-mist setting spray
| Skin Concern | Best Concealer Type | Where to Avoid | Application Hack |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oily Skin | Cream stick (e.g. MAC Studio Finish) | Forehead center, nose bridge | Tap with finger warmth to melt into skin |
| Dry Skin | Hydrating liquid (e.g. Glossier Stretch) | Outer cheeks, jawline | Apply before foundation for lighter layers |
| Mature Skin | Light-reflecting (e.g. IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Lines) | Smile lines, crow's feet | Use a stippling motion with flat brush |
| Acne-Prone | Non-comedogenic (e.g. Clinique Acne Solutions) | Active breakouts (only if necessary) | Set with green clay powder to reduce swelling |
Tools Breakdown: Why Your Finger Isn't Enough
I used to think brushes were pretentious. Then I tried covering a zit with my finger and spread bacteria everywhere. Cue breakout city. Now my kit has:
- Flat Synthetic Brush (e.g. Real Techniques Detailer): For blemishes and lip line. Stiff enough to press pigment in without rubbing.
- Damp Beauty Sponge (the OG pink one): Under eyes and large areas. Bounce, don’t drag. Rinse weekly!
- Finger (index only!): Warming thick concealers on back of hand. Limited direct face contact.
Skip those viral silicone applicators. Tried three brands – all streaky messes. Total cash grab.
Your Burning Concealer Questions Answered
"Should concealer be lighter than my foundation?"
Only for highlighting (under eyes, brow bone). For redness or spots, match exactly to your skin tone. One shade lighter max – otherwise you get reverse raccoon eyes.
"How do I stop creasing under my eyes?"
First, apply way less than you think. Second, don’t smile while drying (sets wrinkles). Third, press setting powder with a velour puff instead of a brush. Life-changing trick from a Korean MUA.
"Can I use concealer without foundation?"
Yes, but only spot-treat. Blend edges with a tiny brush dipped in moisturizer. Avoid full-face coverage – it’ll look patchy.
"Does concealer go on before or after foundation?"
Before for spot coverage, after for highlighting. Personal preference? I do spot concealer first, then foundation, then under-eye brightening. Less product buildup.
Advanced Tactics: Color Correcting Decoded
Green cancels red? Not always. If you’re pale, green turns gray. Medium skin? Try yellow. Deep skin? Orange is magic. Here’s my cheat sheet after fixing countless makeup fails:
| Skin Tone Depth | Dark Circle Color | Best Corrector | Where to Apply |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fair to Light | Blue-purple | Peach/Salmon | Only on darkest areas |
| Medium | Blue-brown | Orange | Entire under-eye zone |
| Tan to Deep | Deep brown-black | Red-orange | Under eye + inner corners |
Apply corrector first, then skin-tone concealer only where needed. Less is more – I’ve seen people turn their face into a rainbow. Don’t be that person.
The Concealer Hall of Fame (And What to Skip)
After testing 50+ brands last year, these stood out:
- Drugstore MVP: Maybelline Instant Age Rewind ($10). Sponge tip applies perfect amount. Medium coverage.
- Luxury Splurge: Hourglass Vanish Airbrush ($36). Covers tattoos but feels weightless.
- Clean Beauty: RMS Beauty "Un" Cover-Up ($36). Oil-based, glowy finish.
- Overhyped: Tarte Shape Tape ($31). Too drying unless you’re 18 with perfect skin.
Final thoughts? Where you put concealer is like real estate – location is everything. Nail the placement, and you’ll look awake with half the product. Miss it, and you’re in cakey territory. Trust me, I’ve been both.
Oh, and if you take away one thing: stop putting concealer on your eyelids to "brighten." It creases within minutes. Use actual eye primer. You’re welcome.
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